Mardi Gras, that party to beat all parties, is one of the main attractions of New Orleans, but certainly not the only one. We tend to meet friends from the east coast there to let loose a bit as this city is like no other. La Nouvelle Orléans, The Crescent City, La Ville, The City That Care Forgot, never "The Big Easy ' is the greatest city in the world to natives. It was founded in the 17th century on the banks of the Mississippi by Jean Baptiste LeMoyne, Sieur de Bienville, and his brother Pierre LeMoyne, Sieur d'Iberville. It has endured swamps, mosquitoes, floods, fires, hurricanes, and its politicians throughout the centuries to stand as, perhaps, the most culturally unique city in the US.
New Orleans is a city surrounded by water--Lake Pontchartrain, the Mississippi River, and myriad bayous, canals and waterways. The city sits below sea level so it has a complex system of levees, drainage canals, spillways and pumping stations to keep water from destroying it. Despite a popular misconception, New Orleans is not a Cajun city, though many Cajuns live there. The people, culture and cuisine of New Orleans are Creole and have a long and distinguished history going back to its founding. We all know that this is a city that sings with music, food, and people that make one smile. Imagine its history if the Pilgrims has headed South. But it was settled by the French who were gamblers, adventurers, and with a culture intact that made living a love affair with all of the senses. No refugees these, rather men who came to transfer their ideas. They brought their architecture, food, music, and traditions. This is the land of Mardi Gras, jazz, King Cakes, streetcars, cafe au lait, beignets, muffulettas, neutral grounds, heat, humidity, crawfish, Yates, hurricanes, the French Quarter, gumbo, and red beans'n'rice. So let's look at this city and get an idea what you'd like to do.
As I said before, we have visited New Orleans many times and spent our days walking the French Quarter, sipping coffee and shopping, but the last time we visited I decided to do all the things I had always wanted to do but didn't for fear of the looks on friends' faces.. I went on walking tours getting exercise and information at the same time. First I learned more about the history of the city by touring the above-ground tombs of New Orleans affectionately called the "cities of the dead". The people of this city have always respected the dead, but early settlers learned quickly that digging a few feet down the ground becomes wet and soggy because of the water table. You can imagine the air tight coffins bobbing up from the ground after a rain storm. Even when natives bored holes in the coffins to keep them down, the results were unsuitable, so following the Spanish custom, the dead are buried in vaults. The rich built ornate tombs and crypts and the cemeteries resemble miniature cities with rows of tombs. many with iron fences and walk ways that are like streets. On your way from the airport you will see a modern cemetery called Metairie, but in the city there are old ones ( 42 in all) with three near the French Quarter. Do go on tours and not alone as New Orleans can be dangerous especially on twisted pathways and dead ends (excuse the pun) of these old cemeteries.
One morning I got a taxi and rode to the New Orleans Museum of Art and thoroughly enjoyed it. The museum is located in a park like setting, in fact at the end of City Park. and has an excellent collection. Walking the quite halls and galleries is a stark contrast to the noise and movement of the French Quarter. After lunch I took another walking tour, this time to the Garden District. Here your guide will regale you with the histories of these mansions, even Ann Rice's. If you're lucky shell be there and come out to greet you. The green of the shrubs, the wrought iron surrounding the homes, the old streets and yet suburban quality of the district makes for a wonderful few hours.
What else is there to do? Well why not get onto a tour bus and wind up at a boat dock on a bayou regaled by the tour guide/boatman. Bring your camera and shoot the wild life-graceful birds and alligators who glide effortlessly and in silence through the water. On a warm, humid day, this is good retreat from the city. One more excursion, before we get back to the reality of shopping, eating and listening to music of the French Quarter: One of our friends is a Civil War buff and that means that we have seen plantations and battle sites whenever we travel together. On one visit to the area we found ourselves at Oak Alley Plantation which is the quintessential southern plantation house. It is a massive Greek Revival home surrounded by 28 columns each 8 feet in circumference. The house has 15 foot ceilings and cross ventilation to keep the family cool in the oppressive summer months. The name comes form the alley of oak trees that lead from the river to the house. This was a working sugar plantation and the guides, dressed in historically correct costumes, tell "it like it was" with charm. You'll get an insiders' view of what "rich" meant in the 19th century. If you liked that tour, there are other plantations to visit near by; just ask.
If you arrive with children visit the aquarium located on the River at canal Street. There is the Audubon Zoo and, if you have a car, Global Wildlife is in Covington. There is also the Nature Center and a Riverfront Streetcar to ride, so your days will be full. For older children there are voodoo tours, Ghost and vampire tours and haunted tours, and for a bit of relaxation there are horse drawn carriages that will take you through the city. Don't forget the Riverfront Streetcar, the Louisiana Children's Museum, the Audubon Living Science Museum, the LA Superdome and the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum.
New Orleans is a city for shopping. To prove the point, let me share this story about one trip we took. The French Quarter has many art galleries and antique shops some of which have exquisite items, with prices to match, I fear. Anyway, at that time my husband was collecting canes, mostly European for reasons known only to him. He also was an English mystery lover and had said many times that he wanted an English walking stick with a hidden blade inside that one might read about in a Victorian novel. One day while wandering through the streets of antique shops I found one that specialized in old guns, swords, armor, etc., and I walked into the musty shop. A salesperson asked if he could help and I told him that my mild mannered Anglophile husband had wished for a special cane with a hidden blade. He told me they were illegal, but I could speak to the owner, as they used to sell them. A very short elderly gentleman came out from his office, took my driver's license and left. Ten minutes later, he returned with my license and three canes, all English. I selected one and 6 weeks later, just in time for Christmas, a large package arrived with the return address of an art gallery. Inside was one of those gifts that make a grown man cry. It has stood with the rest of his collection ever since, but the experience was pure Louisiana and I cherish it. Now a word to the wise. The French Quarter can be dangerous. Don't walk alone at night, keep your valuables hidden, and watch yourself at all times; however, the hustle, the smell of coffee, the sound of music coming from bars, and the aromas from restaurants makes your walk worth it.
The list of restaurants is too long to share here, but do ask friends who have been, the concierge of your hotel, or look up restaurants on the web. It's hard to go wrong whether you are going for Creole food and jazz or a 4 star French meal. One caveat we need to share though, is that many of the meals will be rich, high in fat, and break the carbohydrate bank, so beware. Watch your blood glucose levels and indulge only to a safe level. A small bite is better than no bite, but only if you are in tight control. After dinner try a jazz club. There are large tourist spots, complete with tour buses parked outside, and small dives, but the music will stir you heart strings in either as long as you are alive. We have seen all of the greats, but the not so greats are just wonderful. Wend your way back to the hotel. Take a cab if it's too late. Hotels range from the giant international names on Canal Street to small intimate ones in the Quarter, to elegant medium sized ones that will make you feel like a queen or king. Ask your travel agent or go to www.explore-new-orleans.com and www.mytravelguide.com which will link you to many web sites if you need more information than they give. The truth is that that's a lot.
Diabetics have to make certain accommodations to new surroundings and New Orleans is not an exception. You will be walking a lot, and the climate is temperate and humid. Make allowances for how that will affect your blood glucose levels. If you plan a day away from the hotel, have a cold carrier for insulin and take along your supplies and medications. What ever you do, wear shoes with thick soles that are very comfortable. High heels or dress Italian shoes with thin soles on stone streets are difficult. Carry water so you don't get dehydrated and carry extra hose in case you run into rain. If you plan a day in the Quarter, leave valuables in the hotel safe; take one credit card and go for it.
New Orleans is the city of Mardi Gras and you will know that the moment you step onto its streets, visit its restaurants, and listen to its music. The people we have met there have a joi de vivre that stems from the city's French heritage, and the countryside is a lesson in American history. Where else can a Yankee walk on a Mississippi levee and then cross a road to visit a plantation mansion complete with live oaks and moss? Get your tickets, make your reservation, save you beads for throwing, and get ready to smile; you're on your way to La Ville, the City that Care Forgot.
