travel

november 2000

Someone has to get the rough and tough assignments, and last month it was me. With a new contract for a another hardcover cookbook in the mail and this travel article to write, my husband and I headed for France, and not just France, but the south of France. First, let me state emphatically that there are bargains out there and we are lucky to have a travel agent (David Namar) who knows them all. Air France had a wonderful trip which included air fare, a 4-star hotel and private limo service from Nice to Cannes and back all for a price that was affordable. With the balance of trade not so favorable, the dollar is strong and so we packed our bags and off we flew to the Côte d'Azur. From the center of the country, flying to Nice is not quick. Our trip began at the airport in Tulsa and then continued to Houston and then to Paris and then on to Nice. From there our driver met us and we were on the way to Cannes, all of which seemed to take forever, but in reality took from 11:00 am one day and ended at 12:00 noon the next during which time we jumped ahead 7 hours. The good thing about flying Air France was the service and food. Even my diabetic meals were good ( not haute cuisine) as compared to those on the way home on a Continental flight. Nine and a half hours to 10 hours in coach is a long time even if movies are available. BUT, when you get to France, everything changes. Even the enormous De Gaulle airport, which should be classified as a town by its self, made us feel welcome. My husband needs a wheel chair in large airports and the staff could not have been more helpful, from a car to take us to the proper building for our next flight, to a crew of young men pushing us through long lines and communicating with the next crew as we ran through the airport. The same could be said about our trip back to the US when we made our flight in Paris by minutes. The same could be said for the entire trip. People were more than kind and considerate. Many of you will have heard terrible things about the coldness of the French. We've been to many areas of the country and never found this to be so. They are different, but different is good. If you didn't want to learn about their culture, you could have stayed in your home town. This time our memories of the French with whom we spent hours at a time, was their impression of Americans which they glean from our exported TV programs. We come off as cartoon characters of people you may know or hopefully you won't have the pleasure of meeting if you're lucky. We speak our fractured French and they speak their English and we all have excellent manners so we are all fine. Our hotel , the Noga Hilton, is a 4 star hotel with quiet efficient help. We all know that type 1 diabetics have some special needs and it was a joy being in a hotel which was more than happy to freeze my insulin cooler, send carbs in seconds, and which had a mini bar to keep insulins in so they were always cool. The concierge was excellent, making reservations for a myriad of guests from around the world. I love Europe where these patient men can help you in just about any language. We visited a number of hotels along the Coisette, the street that faces the Mediterranean, and they were grand. After all this is a resort for the rich and those who have a great package so they can feel that way. Our room was on the side of the hotel and from our balcony we could see the sea with the yachts and major ocean liners which come to port regularly. Each morning we enjoyed a breakfast on the dining room balcony overlooking the sea. This was part of our package and appeared to be the same for everyone at the hotel. It included a buffet of juices, fresh baked breads, and rolls, fresh fruit, eggs, bacon, sausages, yogurts, a selection of charcuterie, and that wonderful French coffee which opens your eyes with a blast of caffeine. My husband actually got up by himself and was ready for breakfast before I was each morning. Somehow, this was better than the cold cereal he gets at home, although, they had those too. Now lets talk about the Côte d'Azur. Look at the pictures I have included. Here the sky is blue as is the water. The harbors in Nice, Cannes and in small villages are full of expensive yachts. We watched regattas of sailboats and saw power boats that looked like they needed crews of 20 to get underway. The mountains come almost to the coast so that the views are unbelievable. The coast can be rugged, but the beaches are lovely although, in a place like Cannes, broken up into hotel spots with different colored umbrellas and restaurants on the beach so you never have to leave your chaise if you don't want to. Our limo service , the Azur, was excellent. They even called the day before we left to make sure we had reconfirmed. In a country where the natives speak very quickly, this was comforting. We hired a young man Joel LE BESCHU, whose card says, "body guard as well as security driver and security consulting" He drove us for more than 8 hours form Cannes through the small towns between Cannes and Nice and on to Monaco. He was a security guard in central Africa for years and yet this part of France is his home, and his love of his country is evident. He drove us through busy market places, lower parts and upper parts of towns, and helped us through the Matisse Museum in Nice after showing us the city including the Chagal. By the way, there is a jazz festival at the garden around the Matisse in the summer. The alleys are named after famous jazz musicians. We saw old churches that are off the beaten track, mansions along the shore, embankments and castles, and held on as we maneuvered winding narrow roads. With his limo, we were able to get very close to exhibits that we could not have with a rental car. We actually got to drive up to the Prince's castle in Monte Carlo, a small country that is wall to wall high rise condos. No one could have been kinder helping my husband with his walker on cobblestone alleys and getting in and out of museums with a myriad of elevators and steps. Did we enjoy our time with Joel? You bet. You can reach him at 05 20 74 50 40 if you are coming to France or Switzerland. Now let's get down to the important parts of visiting Cannes. What's to do. We went on a small train ride which goes around the town for about an hour so that you can get your bearings. There are three shopping streets there. The first is La Croisette which faces the sea. Here you will find the most famous boutiques in France and Italy as well as some of the most beautiful jewelry you'll ever see. I guess in a town with casinos these follow. Second is the Rue de Antibes, which runs parallel to La Croisette but is two blocks inland. Here are more stores, but they look more affordable. Finally, there is the Rue Meynadier which is a pedestrian walkway with small stores along each side. Here you can purchase entire meals, cheaper Provençal goods, cut rate clothing etc. On Sunday after eating too much for too many days, I picked up some oriental food here. It was the only mediocre meal we ate in France. On Sundays there is an open air art gallery in the park across from Le Palais de Festivals ( the Palais where the Cannes Film Festival is held ) and quite near this street. There are flea markets in small towns and in Cannes, so just ask your concierge so you too can wonder through looking for herbs, produce, local goods, and so forth. We made it to Le Suquet, the historic area of Cannes and the Vieux Port. From there we took a boat to L'ile Sainte Marguerite which was fascinating. This is one of two islands off of the coast. On this island is an old fort with the prison where the famous man in the iron mask was held. There are beautiful pathways for walking and a small museum at the fort with Roman ruins found in the water near the island as well as a lovely photography exhibit. The boats run on the hour to the island and on the half hour to come back to Cannes. There are also museums in Cannes and in the area. Do go and see them if they are your thing. They will not compete with the Louvre, but culture is culture. Now for the important part of this article, the food. We came to France to meet chefs and Maitre d'Hotels at the best, and to find great restaurants. In France, it's really hard to get a bad meal. In the south of France there are regional foods because you are on the water and near Provence. You can eat Pan Bagna, a sandwich that needs an extra napkin for the olive oil that drips down your arm when you eat it, as well as Nicoise Salad and Bouillabaisse. We went to one restaurant in the old port section for the later and it was good but in a touristy part of Cannes.The service was fair and the restaurant was expensive for what they gave us. We wound up talking to a couple from Holland who were sitting next to us for quite a long time. They too waited for their bill for more than an hour. We did, however, enjoy meeting them and comparing facts about our countries. Now on to the really good food we enjoyed. Get out your paper and pencil and write these down because you will love them for different reasons. The first night we were in Cannes we went to a local small restaurant called Bistro Margaux which is owned and run by Daniel and Irene Gelle. It is on the Rue H. Vagliano(Tel 04 93 38 68 68 ) These two, Daniel the chef, and Irene who took care of us showing her knowledge and love of food. When I review restaurants, I tend to order the same thing to compare preparations. The Gelles had a restaurant in San Fransico and left when the building they were in was razed. Our meals were flavorful, cooked perfectly and beautiful, and, remember, we were in a bistro. Irene's selection of wine was perfect, her olives as French as they come, and the service impeccable. My duck breast was pink and perfect and my husband's sole was melt in your mouth. Just a word of interjection here. The French are serious about food. Don't come at 6:00 to be back at the hotel at 6:30. Reservations start at 8:00 and your "hosts"" take it for granted that eating is the activity of the night. Sit back and enjoy the conversation and the courses. Also, don't worry about finding something you can eat if you are on a special diet. Just tell the man in a Black jacket who is the Maitre d'Hotel that you have diabetes. We ate at many restaurants and when we made reservations we shared my needs. The chefs were very willing to be of help. My desserts of fresh fruit were some of the most beautiful displays I have ever seen. We ate at Villa Des Lys at the Majestic Hotel in Cannes. The chef, Bruno Oger is famous for his recipes of Haute Cuisine Francaise. Lucien Barriere made our evening memorable. You can reach them at 04 92 98 77 00 for reservations. This is not a large restaurant so reservations in advance are necessary. The room is elegant, which sets the stage for the food which can outshine the setting. Two small demitasse cups with very rich soups came first and then our meals began to arrive. Only in France would someone mold your green salad and decorate it with fresh herbs, We all know how many salads we, as diabetics, eat, but in all of the fancy restaurants, we found chefs' presentations breathtaking. Even the simple are elegant. My duck came braised with mushrooms and pate de fois gras. What a treat. My husband's fish was perfect. His dessert, of chocolate, of course, was so good he was speechless and all of this was followed by coffee and those lovely cookies that arrive with it. Service was attentive for us and for everyone in the room. We watch for this when we visit a restaurant and here it was quiet, efficient and proud as it should have been. The food was memorable. Happily, we walked back to our hotel vowing not to eat a large breakfast the next morning. The day we spent with Joel we ate at the Chateau de la Chevre d'Or or the golden goat. Nicer in French. The rooms of the Chateau are spread throughout the village with views of the sea and, on the day we ate, that of Corsica. We ate lunch at the restaurant which is on the second floor of the chateau and has views that are breathtaking. Telephone 04 93 41 06 72 for reservations. Claude Hirt is the director of the restaurant and saw to our meal. Once again little nibbles came to our table before our meals. These tease your taste buds and set the stage for the masterpieces that will later arrive from the kitchen. Our driver had steak which came out sliced and fanned with artichoke and a starch which I wish I could remember, but my meal of a seafood soup was so good, I barely looked at him eating. Desserts for my husband and Joel were fresh sorbets. Nothing was left in either plate as the cookies and candies arrived with coffee. Now, once again, here is a restaurant with a view to die for, where the food was at least that good or better. The last night we were in Cannes we drove to La Napoule to eat at L'Oasis (FAX 04 93 496413). The Maitre d' Hotel, Philippe Cavo was attentive and the setting was unbelievably beautiful You walk into a restaurant and then out into a courtyard that has a canopy of maple branches over head. Once again the staff was efficient, quiet and attentive to our every need. They moved around the patio with grace, making sure that every table had the same splendid service. My husband had local fish prepared Provençal style. It looked almost too good to eat, but he managed to eat the whole thing. My duck, once again, was wonderful. I had 4 meals of duck, and never had a bad presentation, but L'Oasis rendition was elegant, beautiful, fat free, and so good that knowing it was our last dinner in France, I ate the whole thing. The puff pastry h'ors doevres were gone before I could taste them as my husband had developed a French restaurant quick-draw. The fish pate I tasted, and it was excellent. My husband's dessert, of chocolate, again, was gone before I could blink and then the cookies came with coffee. The saddest part of our meal was leaving early because we had an early flight the next morning and an even earlier limo drive to Nice. Don't miss these four restaurants if you go to southern France. You will bless your lucky stars that you went. We made it back to Paris and on to our plane just in time. Our Air France partner is Continental and we flew home on one of the new Boeing 777 jets which are comfortable. You get your own interactive TV so you can watch movies, old TV shows, or play video games. It makes the 10 hours fly by like 9. The crew was once again very helpful, but bless the French who get their first taste of American food on this flight. Even my husband would not eat my meal which was labeled "diabetic." I had extra fruit from breakfast so I could eat. By the way my "diabetic"dessert for a snack was M&M's. So much for a labeled diabetic meal. Once again, however, our service was excellent. Thank you Continental. Our trip is done, our pictures are developed and our memories are strong. Don't worry about trips abroad. Talk to your doctor if you want to know how to modify your medications and insulin as you lose and gain hours. Carry glucose tablets as you'll be walking, carry a prescription from your doctor saying you have diabetes and that you may need specific meds, and go for it. It was a vacation that we will cherish forever-the landscape, the people, the language, the museums, the views, the food, and mostly us in the South of France.