travel

march 2003

Contrary to what you might believe, there's more to Seattle than espresso carts, coffee stands, and cappuccino bars. It's a city of diverse cuisine that's eclectic, exciting, and world-class. No wonder that we invited three of Seattle's most noted chefs - Tamara Murphy of Brasa in Belltown, Jerry Traunfeld of The Herbfarm in Woodinville, and Tim Kelly of The Painted Table at the downtown Seattle Alexis Hotel to participate in our newest book, The Joslin Diabetes Great Chefs Cook Healthy Cookbook. Their ingenious use of the area's rich bounty of ingredients . . .especially salmon, shellfish, sweet onions, mushrooms, asparagus, stone fruits, berries, and local wines, infused with flavors of the Pacific Rim, makes Seattle cuisine alone worth a trip from anywhere.

I've been visiting Seattle on a routine basis since 1961 when my brother and his family settled in Bellevue on Lake Washington. While it's wonderful having a personally guided tour, Seattle's very easy to navigate on one's own. Here's my list of must-sees: Photo Courtesy of The Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau Pike Place Market: From its famous flying fish to stands filled with luscious product, this rambling public market is a favorite of tourists and natives. A 9-acre National Historic District, the market has been open since 1907 and is now home to more than 100 farmers, 150 craftspeople, 300 commercial businesses, and 50 street performers. The day starts early at 6 a.m. when the first coffee stands open and farmers, fish mongers, and butchers start opening their shops. By 9 a.m. the craftspeople and seasonal farmers have arrived with merchants and retailers following suit around 10. The market is alive with activity with a swell of downtown business men and women arriving at noon to choose food from cuisines that span the globe. By 4 p.m. the street musicians are still playing to throngs of shoppers buying edible goods and beautiful fresh flowers to take home for that night's dinner. Depending on the season, shops begin to close with deep bargains on fresh vegetables and flowers. By 7 p.m., the day people have gone and the market nightlife begins with restaurants, fine dining, music, and dancing. Photo Courtesy of The Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau Built for the 1962 Seattle World's Fair, this 605-foot-high spire is still one of Seattle's most popular attractions. The Observation Deck at the top offers a spectacular panoramic view, from day through sunset and into the dark with a carpet of city lights in all directions. For years, I thought the Sky City restaurant which sits 20 feet below the Observation Deck was the place to go for dinner, but in recent years I've decided that their luncheon is a far better bargain and just as good. Featuring Northwestern cuisine (outstanding salmon all year and fiddlehead ferns in the spring), the restaurant rotates once every 47 minutes. No setting your purse or camera case down on the window ledge, as you'll soon have left it behind! While you're near to the Space Needle, check out the most controversial piece of architecture to hit Seattle, the Experience Music Project (EMP). Recognize the name Paul Allen, a cofounder of Microsoft. Long before that, he was a guitarist and, to honor America's popular music heritage, Allen and his sister Jody hired Frank O. Gehry to design EMP, which to many looks like a crumpled mass of stainless steel and aluminum. Inside there are numerous high-tech exhibits ranging from jazz to country western. Pioneer Square is the cultural heart of Seattle, and is Seattle's oldest neighborhood. It's home to more than 30 galleries, a vibrant retail sector, blocks of historical buildings, and some of Seattle most popular nightlife. The Underground Tour gives a spooky glimpse of Seattle's colorful past that lies beneath Seattle's present street level. Guided 1 1/2-hour tours are offered daily, year-round. Belltown is a 55-block trendy district with broad avenues, expensive condominiums, dozens of glamorous restaurants, and unique shops filled to the brim with treasures. Here's where you go to shop for one-of-a-kind items and stay to dine. Photo Courtesy of The Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau Ferry to Winslow: Viewing Seattle from the Winslow Ferry is a must experience for anyone visiting Seattle. Ferries are constantly going back and forth to many destinations across Puget Sound, but the 35-minute ride to Winslow on Bainbridge Island is a tourist classic. A walk-on round trip will cost just under $5.00 and is easily worth every penny. Winslow is an interesting town with attractive restaurants, art galleries, and shops. If you're lucky, you'll see majestic Mt. Rainier looming in back of the Seattle skyline. Photo Courtesy of The Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau If you have kids in tow, they'll especially enjoy the Locks where they can watch as boats make the transition from the fresh water of Lake Washington and Lake Union to the salt water of Puget Sound in Ballard, Seattle's Scandinavian neighborhood. Nearby they can watch the salmon climb the fish ladders from the Sound into Lake Union on their way to Lake Washington and beyond. Home to such giants as Microsoft, Boeing, Edie Bauer, Starbucks, and Amazon.com, Seattle is a thrilling place to visit. For camera buffs, there's breath-taking landscape and flowers to snap around most every corner. As always on any trip, plan ahead and make sure you've packed sturdy walking shoes, comfortable clothing to wear in layers (so you can take off or put on as the weather changes), a jacket, and since this is Seattle, an umbrella. Wonder what makes those beautiful trees and flowers? Lots of rain and a cool, marine climate. Also, take along twice as much insulin/medications and blood testing supplies as you think you'll need. Since you'll be doing a lot of walking, be sure to always carry carb snacks to offset any drops in blood glucose levels. Have a good trip! FTG