When recently visiting by phone with our Persian friend Parvine (several of her delicious recipes are on the site), she reminded me of her springtime trip last year to Utah's canyon country. I've been there myself a number of times, with my husband and sons. Since there's been a lot of rain and snow this year, the canyons should be alive with wild flowers later on in the spring. Although Grand Canyon is partly in Utah, we're leaving that to another article by itself as we usually approach the Grand Canyon via Flagstaff which brings us to the South Rim in Arizona.
Established by the Nation Park Service in 1919, Zion National Park is the oldest and most popular national park in Utah. The first time we visited Zion and Bryce, our second Utah canyon destination, our sons were 8 and 10 years old. They eagerly took to the trails. The trails are self-guiding and there's little chance for children to get into trouble, but at that age we insisted that they stay within our sight at all time. There was some grumbling at first that we were slowpokes, but they soon found watching the mules, deer, rock squirrels, lizards, and many species of songbirds to be of sufficient interest that the complaining stopped within a few minutes. We'd driven to the parks by car since we were then living in California. Nowadays we would take an inexpensive and direct flight from DFW Airport to Las Vegas, then rent a car for drive to Zion. It's about a 4-hour drive from Vegas, leaving you plenty of time for a family hike in the afternoon.
The park is located within easy access from I-15 on Utah Highway 9. The most dramatic entrance to the park is the east entrance where the highway descends through a mile-long tunnel that burrows through the mountains with a series of switchbacks winding down into Zion Canyon. Huge "windows" appear periodically in the tunnel, affording you breathtaking glimpses of the scenery to come at the end of the tunnel. There are size restrictions on vehicles traveling through the tunnel as the tunnel at its east entrance is 11 feet 4 inches in height (3.5 m). A $10 fee is required to escort large vehicles through the narrow tunnel. Park entrance fee is $20. for a single vehicle entry, valid only at Zion and good for 7 days from date of issue. People 62 years and older can purchase a lifetime pass to any of the nation's national parks for $10. We now have such a pass that my husband purchased at a national park in Michigan.
In the northern section is the Kolob Canyon entrance to the park, accessible off 1-15 18 miles south of Cedar City. This is where you can see Kolob Arch, the world' longest natural arch with a span that measures 310 feet (94.5 m).
Carved by erosions brought about by the meandering Virgin River over millions of years, the 147-acre Zion National Park is still evolving as the river continues to flow through the masterpiece it created. Massive formations of sedimentary rock, mostly sandstone, create a "cathredral" atmosphere with difference in elevations, sunlight, wter, and temperature create "microenvironments," like hanging gardens, forested side canyons, and isolated mesas that lend to the canyon's diversity. Zion is home to almost 800 native species of plant life, 75 species of mammals, 271 kinds of birds, 32 kinds of reptiles and amphibians, and 8 kinds of fish.
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There are several easy, self-guiding trails in Zion, along with hikes that are more strenuous. The Gateway to the Narrows Trail, the trail to Emerald Pools, and Riverside Walk are paved and suitable for casual strollers and wheelchairs with some assistance. Both the visitor center and Zion Lodge are fully accessible to those with special needs. Several campsites in the South Campground are reserved for people who are physically challenged.
The combination of mountain and canyon microenvironments makes Zion an excellent location for wildflower walks. Since the fall and early winter were relatively dry, it's fortunate that the last few months have been wet. I talked with the Zion visitors center the day I was writing this article and they said the wildflowers will be blooming by mid-April, peaking in May with many species continuing through June. Again, in the fall, walks in the canyon are spectacular for viewing fall leaf color. Zion is home to 271 species of birds so be sure to bring binoculars. A bird checklist can be obtained at the visitor's centers.
From early April through October, the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is only available by shuttle bus. Private vehicles are not allowed during those months. The shuttle is free and operates in two loops, one making six stops in the town of Springdale and the other making eight stops at points of interest in the park. Each bus is fully accessible and can take strollers. Pets are not allowed, but may be kenneled in nearby towns.
As always if you have diabetes, make sure you have drinking water, carb snacks, your testing kit, and glucose tablets with you when taking a hike. If you're taking insulin, be sure that your vial is properly stored in a cooler or special pack for carrying insulin that keeps it cool as even on a mild spring day, the inside temperature of your car can easily reach over 80°F (about 27°C). Wear comfortable walking shoes and take along an extra pair of socks to change into should your feet start to sweat. It's important if you have diabetes to keep your feet dry.
Be prepared for a wide range of weather conditions and temperatures. They will vary with changes in elevation and season, with day and night temperatures differing by over 30°F (about -1°C). Spring weather is unpredictable. Warm, sunny weather may occur, but stormy, wet days are common. March is the wettest month.
If you have diabetes, don't plan to visit Zion in the summer as daytime temperatures will be well over safe temperatures for you to be hiking-95 to 100 degrees. If you missed the spring months, wait until fall when the days will be usually clear and mild, although nights are often quite cool. Autumn color peaks in early November at Zion.
Zion Lodge is operated by AmFac Parks and Resorts, Inc., which operates a website: http://www.amfac.com for reservations for cabin and motel accommodations. Zion Lodge has a snack bar and dining room. Dinner reservations are needed spring through fall. Lodging is also available in Springdale, Mr. Carmel Junction, Kanab, and other nearby communities. Reservations are a must and can be made from Travel Service Utah (800) 259-3843 or by visiting the Zion Canyon Chamber of Commerce web site http://www.zionpark.com. Restaurants are available in these surrounding towns and full service grocery stores and/or convenience stores are available in Springdale, Hurricane, La Verkin, Mt. Carmel Junction, and Kanab.
If you're planning on camping, some campgrounds are on a first-come-first serve basis and others require advance reservations. For more information go to http://www.nps.gov and click on national parks, scrolling down to the bottom of the list for Zion. You'll get information on campgrounds and phone numbers for questions and reservations.
Eight miles northeast of Zion is another natural beauty, the nearly 36,000-acre Bryce Canyon National Park. Bryce has an entirely different character than Zion: Instead of a single compressed canyon, Bryce is a awesome amphitheater filled with fantastically shaped pillars of sandstone and limestone eroded over millions of years by wind and water. The Paiutes who were living in the region when the first Europeans came through in the late 1700s called the area "red rocks standing like men in a bowl-shaped canyon." Ponderosa pines, high elevation meadows, and fir-spruce forest border the rim of the plateau, while panoramic views of three states spread beyond the park's boundaries. This area boasts some of the country's best air quality. This, combined with the absence of nearby strong light sources, creates fantastic opportunities for stargazing.
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We'd only allowed a short time to visit the park so we first drove to Sunrise Point and peered down from the edge of the 8,000 thousand foot-high Paunsaugunt Plateau into the natural amphitheater that was brimming with gargoyle-like spires, pinnacles, and pastel-colored rock formations. A half-mile hike along the rim brought us to Sunset Point and the Navajo Loop trailhead (1.5 miles round trip)which provided us with spectacular views and access to the bottom of the amphitheater some 320 feet below. We hiked down the trail, descending into a labyrinth of twisted rock formations. A word of caution: This is not a hike I would recommend for anyone who is claustrophobic. One especially feels shut in by rock when you reach "Wall Street," a sidewalk-sized passageway beneath parallel rows of stone skyscrapers. The end of the trail is guarded by a pair of towering Douglas fir trees more than 750 years old. If you have a little more time, drive to Rainbow Point, some 18 miles away, and stop at the 13 viewpoints on your return trip. Again, pets are not allowed on any of the park trails or overlooks. Since dessert heat can produce extreme temperatures inside cars, it's best to leave your pet back home or kennel it in a nearby town.
AmFac Parks and Resorts, Inc. also operates the Bryce Canyon Lodge. Its 114 rooms include lodge suites, motel rooms, and cabins. The season begins April 1 and runs through October 31. The dining room at Bryce Canyon Lodge is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dinner reservations are required. Additional lodging is available throughout the area with reservations almost a requirement to insure a place to stay. Campgrounds are also available at Bryce. For information, go to the www.nps.gov site and scroll down to Bryce Canyon.
In addition to Navajo Loop, there are other trails to try: Fairland Loop (8 miles round trip), Peekaboo Loop (4.8 or 6.8 miles round trip), and Queen's Garden (1.8 miles round trip). Keep in mind that any hike below the rim will involve a steep climb out of the canyon. Wear hiking boots with good traction and ankle support. Drink plenty of water and respect your own physical limitation.
In spring and fall, we can also recommend a 2-hour or half-day trail ride on horses or mules lead by Canyon Trail Rides wranglers. For information and reservations, visit their website at http://www.onpages.com/canyonrides/. The dessert heat of summer makes Bryce not an appropriate destination for people with diabetes.
When visiting Bryce, you can park your car outside of the park at the Shuttle Staging Area located at the intersection of Highway 12 and Highway 63. From the "Blue Line" Shuttle will pick you up and bring you into the park to the Visitor Center. Then you will board the "Red Line" Shuttle to the most famous viewpoints and scenic trailheads in the Main Amphitheater. At the Visitor Center, you can also make a reservation to ride the "Green Line" Shuttle to tour the southern portion of the park. The three shuttles run all day and are free. The shuttles operate from May 15-September 30. If you elect to drive your car into the park, again there is a $20 fee at the entrance station; a lifetime NPS pass will get you into the park for free.
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