Recently we've been getting a lot of fan mail from the UK with requests for more British recipes. Since my ancestors came to the U.S. from England, I have long been interested in British cooking; but alas, with my necessity for lower-calorie, low-fat food, I've had to give up many of the traditional English ingredients such as double cream, clotted cream, treacle, suet, Stilton cheese, and many of the other delicious items I'm fond of. That doesn't mean, however, that my English dinner, which I usually prepare for friends in January, needs to be dull and flavorless. Far from it. I'd match my dinner with the fare served at the most traditional of London restaurants and come out a winner.
I serve the meal in the formal dining room and make sure there's a roaring fire in the nearby fireplace. For a centerpiece, I combine fresh pears and apples in a footed silver bowl with any seasonal berries and evergreens that are still fresh from my holiday arrangements. Instead of covering the table with heavy linens, I use a fabric runner down the middle of the table, color coordinated with large damask napkins. The plates, goblets, and silver service will be placed directly on the table. Pairs of cranberry glass candlesticks, early 18th century England, hold slim white tapers, and the table's set for the most discerning guest.
Britain grows superb watercress, particularly in Hampshire so I decided to start my noble meal with a bowl of savory Watercress Soup. Instead of using the traditional flour as a thickening agent, I've added a bit of potato to the mixture which when puréed gives the desired "creamy" consistency. It's a beautiful soup and very British.
Beef Wellington is my choice of entrée. Named after the Duke of Wellington, a highly prominent British statesman and soldier of the 19th century, Beef Wellington is a fillet of beef covered with duxelles (a sautéed mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots, and herbs), then wrapped in puff pastry and baked. Frozen sheets of puff pastry make it easy and the dish only takes about 25 minutes of final baking, so have it ready to pop into the oven when your guests are finishing their before-dinner drinks (see our recipe below for Cranberry Mist). By the time you finish the first course the roast will be done.
With the roast I'm serving Brussels Sprouts with Roasted Chestnuts and a delicious Carrot Custard for which only you will know it's recipe's secret-it's so easy to make. If your market still has fresh chestnuts, you can use them in the recipe or you can save time, as I often do, and buy them in a vacuum-packed jar, already roasted and shelled. Since the carrot custard bakes at a different temperature than the roast, if you only have one oven, you'll need to bake it ahead. It reheats beautifully. To do so, set the dish in a large skillet of barely simmering water for about 25 minutes, or until the custard is heated through.
I particularly enjoy reading novels by English authors. Invariably, IF the heroine cooks at all, she goes into the kitchen at sometime during the book to make a bread and butter pudding. I decided to end this meal with one, only mine's flavor-enhanced with dried apricots, apples, and raisins. For occasional use, keep small amounts of unsalted butter in the freezer for when margarine just won't do. Such is the case with this pudding.
(for the recipes, click on The Recipes or click on the individual recipe above)
